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March 2010

A Hublot ‘big Bang Rose Gold Full Diamond’ Watch Gives Christmas

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Christmas is coming-this is the most anticipated holiday year-end, because the gifts that symbolize the inner blessings and wishes are full of magic colors. Hublot hereby presents a snowflake-like purity and clarity. The 18K rose gold bezel surrounds the bang set with 681 brilliant diamonds. Big Bang rose gold and white diamonds-condensing thousands of rays of light on the skin of the wrist, hiding in the warmth. Infinite temptation, deserves its name as a Christmas gift.

Hublot’s ‘Big Bang Rose Gold Full Diamond’ watch presents Christmas
If it is precious, the 38 mm case diameter perfectly reflects the feminine femininity, the pure white natural rubber strap is elegant and dynamic, and the waterproof depth perfectly meets the practical considerations of dynamic women. This Christmas gift created by the top luxury watch brand Hublot is like a pearl in thousands of gems.
In addition to snowflake-like crystal clear white, there are also mysterious all-black and rich chocolates, with different styles to choose from. One of the most unique special gifts in the world, dedicated to the only one in her heart.


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Instant, Eternal

On the single complex function in the watch, the three questions are well deserved first, but the complicated structure hides under the dial, and the owner can only ‘smell it, but not see it’. The chase needle is just the opposite, it is an advanced version of timing, which can record two times in one minute. Structurally, the layout is the same as that of the chronograph movement. All functional parts are placed on the balance side of the movement. It can be said that the classic structure of the tracing movement is the most beautiful movement we can see. (The classic structure is a non-module stack, and has traditional timing structures such as column wheels and horizontal clutches.)

Lange 1815 series double-second perpetual calendar chronograph platinum (421.025)
   The combination of perpetual calendar and chasing needles has existed since ancient times, and shines in the pocket watch. Even in the era of watches, the watches with this combination feature are without exception set by the brand as the top models in the product line. Lange, one of today’s leading watch industry brands, launched the first watch of this type in 2013 and included it in the 1815 collection.

Needle-traveling function Lange 1815 series double-seconds chronograph perpetual calendar chronograph rose gold (421.032)

Precisely divided minute circle and real-time moon phase Lange 1815 series chronograph perpetual calendar chronograph platinum (421.025)
   On the dial, Lange did not choose the popular window structure. Instead, it continued the pocket watch era and the four sub dials. Each sub dial contained two functions. Among the 11 hands, except the second hand Minute chronograph hands are made of blue steel, the rest are all gold. The pointer system is not only a classic tradition, but also in line with the consistent spirit of the 1815 series. It is also more energy-efficient than a window with a disc, which is particularly important in complex models. Although it is a printed dial, it is divided into four layers as a whole. They are the outer chronograph. The basic travel time is the first and second functions of the dial. (Because the sub-disc partially covers the original scale.)

Patek Philippe 5204P-001 Double Seconds Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

Patek Philippe 5204R-001 Double Seconds Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
   The watch is equipped with Lange’s self-produced L101.1 movement, has 631 parts, 4 gold sleeves, and measures 32.6 * 9.1 mm. As its biggest competitor, the perpetual calendar part of Patek Philippe 5204 has about 180 parts, while Lange owns 211. In addition to the difference in the layout of the disk surface, the number of parts may be different, and the structure of the moon phase is also one of the reasons. Lange’s moon phases are called real-time moon phases. The 18K gold moon phase disk is no longer linked to the date system, but is connected to the hour wheel, thus achieving an amazing accuracy of one day after 122.6 years. The needle-tracing function consists of 206 parts, all concentrated on the balance wheel side. The overall layout feels more ‘flat’, and it lacks a sense of multi-layer overlapping like other Lange chronograph movements, but it still can be called precision complex. As a German movement, we can clearly identify all the traditional elements of Glashütte. The steel parts are chamfered and polished with a flat surface. The 6 gold sleeves can be clearly seen from the back of the movement. The second wheel The splint with balance wheel is also hand-carved. It is a little regrettable that the chase pin control lever not only blocks the gooseneck-type fine adjustment, but the beautiful screw balance can only hold the pipa half-covered.

Lange watch factory homemade L101.1 movement multiple surface treatment
   Although it also has the function of chasing the needle, the position of the balance wheel and the important parts of the chronograph are different, indicating that L101.1 is not a modification of L001.1. It is a brand new movement, but it is a pity that the technical details are not the top configuration, such as In the minute timing, Lange’s unique jump structure is not used, but the traditional slow dial gear. It is also worth mentioning that the L101.1’s pursuit pin structure is relatively small, but this has nothing to do with whether it is a top-level configuration, just a different form of expression. In L001.1, the pinch mechanism of the chase needle is very stout, and the two S-shaped components are arranged in a cross, especially the end of the pliers is also arc-shaped to meet the larger contact area with the center seconds wheel of the chase needle.

The Lange watch factory-made L101.1 movement is equipped with a chronograph
   In contrast, the caliper mechanism in L101.1 is replaced by two parallel steel levers. The column wheel that controls the tracking needle is also closer to the center. The contact surface between the end of the brake lever and the second wheel of the tracking needle is not curved. deal with. It sounds like the new design is a bit simple, but this structure has a very prominent advantage, thin! A similar structure was first placed under the dial, and the pocket watch era was very popular, which can effectively reduce the thickness of the entire watch. Today, Lange just moved it from the dial side to the balance wheel side. Therefore, the thickness of the L101.1 with perpetual calendar and tracking function is only 9.1 mm, which is almost the same as the 8.7 mm of Patek Philippe 5204 movement. However, the former has 135 more parts than the latter!

Patek Philippe 5204 super complicated function timepiece with CHR 29-535 PS Q manual winding mechanical movement
   In general, with the appropriate size and classic dial design, the 1815 chase perpetual calendar perfectly embodies the essence of traditional high-end watchmaking in appearance; although it is not technically perfect, it can be modified by top-level manuals without discount. Coupled with the sophisticated and sophisticated movement structure, it is worthy of being a member of the top watch club.

   The minute-tracking record records the moment, the perpetual calendar bears eternity, it is really good enough.


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Myth Of Mark Xviii Mark Pilot’s Watch

The legendary Mark 11 watch, introduced in 1948, has deeply influenced the design of contemporary classic pilot watches. In 2016, the Swiss watchmaker IWC also presented the entry-level Mark XVIII Pilot’s Watch with a calfskin strap or a stainless steel bracelet.

IWC Mark XVIII Pilot’s Watch_IW327011

   In 1941, the Royal Air Force (RAF) found that most of their positioning was imprecise. One reason is that the Royal Air Force lacks the support of precision navigation watches accurate to the second. Navigation through precision navigation watches and sextants was the most accurate way of navigation at the time. In addition, the strong magnetic field and temperature changes in the cockpit also affect the accuracy of the watch’s travel time. Finally, a sudden drop in pressure in the cabin can rupture the mirror. This prompted the Royal Air Force to order the Mark XI Precision Navigation Watch created by IWC after the war. IWC has now become well-known through ‘pilot-made watches’ and large pilot watches. The watch was delivered in 1949, and one thing quickly became clear: the Mark 11 watch is synonymous with precision navigation watches accurate to the second. This watch is precise, sturdy, temperature-resistant, water-resistant, and extremely easy to maintain. The watch has a soft iron inner case that protects the movement from magnetic fields. The screw-in watch can withstand sudden pressure drops without loosening. In order to meet the core purpose of displaying navigation time with absolute precision, the appearance of this ‘pure watch’ is streamlined because the fuel tank display has become a standard feature of the cockpit instruments. The watchmaker even abandoned the chronograph, because at the time, the use of any additional features would affect the accuracy of the time. The simple design of this watch is a model of design and is still the blueprint for pilot watches today. This watch has a production cycle of more than 30 years, from 1948 to 1984, and has been continued with many subsequent models. The Mark Eleven watch is one of the most coveted collections of top quality.

IWC Mark XVIII Pilot’s Watch_IW327011

No more, no less, just right

   In 2016, IWC opened a new chapter. Three stainless steel Mark 18 pilot watches (models: IW327001 / IW327002 / IW327011) make their grand debut, featuring black (model: IW327001 / IW327011) or silver-plated (model: IW327002) dials. Their common features are: Core elements. The dial and display are in sharp contrast, very close to the perfect classic pilot watch. Therefore, it is not surprising that designers took inspiration from the cockpit dashboard of the Junkers Ju52 in the 1930s, which can definitely be called the blueprint for classic pilot watches. The circular display is large and neatly arranged. The future ‘cockpit design style’ was born: no more, no less, just right, everything is based on clarity and layout at a glance. The Arabic numerals are large and round in shape, and they are located at their respective positions, with two exceptions: the number ’12’ is replaced by white triangle marks with dot marks on both sides for higher readability. ‘3 o’clock’ is the date window-a touch of modernity is still essential. The bottom of the watch is engraved with the Ju52 pattern. The wearer can choose between two different straps. Both watches feature a stylish black Santoni calfskin strap (model: IW327001 / IW327002) with orange leather lining on the inside of the strap. The third watch is paired with an elegant stainless steel bracelet (model: IW327011). All Mark XVIII Pilot’s Watch models can now also be paired with a two-tone fabric strap, inspired by the historic Nato strap. In addition, the Mark XVIII Pilot’s Watch each launched a ‘Little Prince’ special edition and a TOPGUN Navy Air Combat Force watch series.

IWC Mark XVIII Pilot’s Watch_IW327001?

The origin of the name Mark XI
   The name Mark XI is derived from the Royal Air Force. At that time, all equipment in the army was named ‘Mark’. Although produced by many manufacturers, it was interchangeable because the installation dimensions were the same as the fixed points. The correct spelling of Mark XI is ‘Mk.11’, because shortly after the end of World War II, the RAF abandoned the Roman alphabet as the numbering method and used Arabic numerals as the counting method. In just a few months, Mark Eleven beat all competitors with its superior ruggedness and accuracy. In the following years, IWC produced more than 8,000 military mark eleven watches for the Royal Air Force, and it was not retired from the Royal Air Force as a precision navigation watch until 1981. In addition to military watches, the watch factory also produced about 1,500 civilian versions. The last watches were delivered to retailers in 1984. Ten years later, the IWC watch inherited the Roman spelling tradition from Mark Twelve, and continues to this day.

IWC Mark XVIII Pilot’s Watch_IW327002?

Model IW327001 ∙ IW327002 ∙ IW327011

Technical characteristics

Mechanical movement – ​​Date display – Central seconds hand with stop device – Soft iron inner case protects the movement from magnetic field effects – Screw-in crown – Glass watch is firmly assembled to withstand sudden pressure drops without loosening – Special engraved case back

Movement

Caliber 30110
Vibration frequency: 28800 times / 4 Hz
21 jewels
Power reserve 42 hours
Automatic winding

Watch

Material Model IW327001: Stainless steel case, black dial, black Santoni calfskin strap, stainless steel pin buckle
    Model IW327002: stainless steel case, silver-plated dial, black Santoni calfskin strap, stainless steel pin buckle
    Model IW327011: stainless steel case, black dial, stainless steel bracelet with fine adjustment
Double-sided anti-reflective convex sapphire glass
Water resistance 6 bar
40 mm diameter
Thickness 11 mm


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