On the single complex function in the watch, the three questions are well deserved first, but the complicated structure hides under the dial, and the owner can only ‘smell it, but not see it’. The chase needle is just the opposite, it is an advanced version of timing, which can record two times in one minute. Structurally, the layout is the same as that of the chronograph movement. All functional parts are placed on the balance side of the movement. It can be said that the classic structure of the tracing movement is the most beautiful movement we can see. (The classic structure is a non-module stack, and has traditional timing structures such as column wheels and horizontal clutches.)
Lange 1815 series double-second perpetual calendar chronograph platinum (421.025)
The combination of perpetual calendar and chasing needles has existed since ancient times, and shines in the pocket watch. Even in the era of watches, the watches with this combination feature are without exception set by the brand as the top models in the product line. Lange, one of today’s leading watch industry brands, launched the first watch of this type in 2013 and included it in the 1815 collection.
Needle-traveling function Lange 1815 series double-seconds chronograph perpetual calendar chronograph rose gold (421.032)
Precisely divided minute circle and real-time moon phase Lange 1815 series chronograph perpetual calendar chronograph platinum (421.025)
On the dial, Lange did not choose the popular window structure. Instead, it continued the pocket watch era and the four sub dials. Each sub dial contained two functions. Among the 11 hands, except the second hand Minute chronograph hands are made of blue steel, the rest are all gold. The pointer system is not only a classic tradition, but also in line with the consistent spirit of the 1815 series. It is also more energy-efficient than a window with a disc, which is particularly important in complex models. Although it is a printed dial, it is divided into four layers as a whole. They are the outer chronograph. The basic travel time is the first and second functions of the dial. (Because the sub-disc partially covers the original scale.)
Patek Philippe 5204P-001 Double Seconds Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Patek Philippe 5204R-001 Double Seconds Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
The watch is equipped with Lange’s self-produced L101.1 movement, has 631 parts, 4 gold sleeves, and measures 32.6 * 9.1 mm. As its biggest competitor, the perpetual calendar part of Patek Philippe 5204 has about 180 parts, while Lange owns 211. In addition to the difference in the layout of the disk surface, the number of parts may be different, and the structure of the moon phase is also one of the reasons. Lange’s moon phases are called real-time moon phases. The 18K gold moon phase disk is no longer linked to the date system, but is connected to the hour wheel, thus achieving an amazing accuracy of one day after 122.6 years. The needle-tracing function consists of 206 parts, all concentrated on the balance wheel side. The overall layout feels more ‘flat’, and it lacks a sense of multi-layer overlapping like other Lange chronograph movements, but it still can be called precision complex. As a German movement, we can clearly identify all the traditional elements of Glashütte. The steel parts are chamfered and polished with a flat surface. The 6 gold sleeves can be clearly seen from the back of the movement. The second wheel The splint with balance wheel is also hand-carved. It is a little regrettable that the chase pin control lever not only blocks the gooseneck-type fine adjustment, but the beautiful screw balance can only hold the pipa half-covered.
Lange watch factory homemade L101.1 movement multiple surface treatment
Although it also has the function of chasing the needle, the position of the balance wheel and the important parts of the chronograph are different, indicating that L101.1 is not a modification of L001.1. It is a brand new movement, but it is a pity that the technical details are not the top configuration, such as In the minute timing, Lange’s unique jump structure is not used, but the traditional slow dial gear. It is also worth mentioning that the L101.1’s pursuit pin structure is relatively small, but this has nothing to do with whether it is a top-level configuration, just a different form of expression. In L001.1, the pinch mechanism of the chase needle is very stout, and the two S-shaped components are arranged in a cross, especially the end of the pliers is also arc-shaped to meet the larger contact area with the center seconds wheel of the chase needle.
The Lange watch factory-made L101.1 movement is equipped with a chronograph
In contrast, the caliper mechanism in L101.1 is replaced by two parallel steel levers. The column wheel that controls the tracking needle is also closer to the center. The contact surface between the end of the brake lever and the second wheel of the tracking needle is not curved. deal with. It sounds like the new design is a bit simple, but this structure has a very prominent advantage, thin! A similar structure was first placed under the dial, and the pocket watch era was very popular, which can effectively reduce the thickness of the entire watch. Today, Lange just moved it from the dial side to the balance wheel side. Therefore, the thickness of the L101.1 with perpetual calendar and tracking function is only 9.1 mm, which is almost the same as the 8.7 mm of Patek Philippe 5204 movement. However, the former has 135 more parts than the latter!
Patek Philippe 5204 super complicated function timepiece with CHR 29-535 PS Q manual winding mechanical movement
In general, with the appropriate size and classic dial design, the 1815 chase perpetual calendar perfectly embodies the essence of traditional high-end watchmaking in appearance; although it is not technically perfect, it can be modified by top-level manuals without discount. Coupled with the sophisticated and sophisticated movement structure, it is worthy of being a member of the top watch club.
The minute-tracking record records the moment, the perpetual calendar bears eternity, it is really good enough.